With London’s rich history comes a plethora historical restaurants which are less for tourists and aimed more at those aching for a London gone by. The Delaunay, on the edge of Covent Garden and with The Strand at one end and London’s financial district at the other, has been part of Holborn for decades albeit as The Wolseley on Piccadilly. As part of the Wolseley Group, The Delaunay caters from breakfast to dinner, serving theatre goers as well as locals and fans of European cuisine but with an understated, high end elegance only this part of London can show off.
The Delaunay boasts a classical, wood panelled French-style bar when you walk in. Here you can have a drink pre-dinner or walk through to the hive-like restaurant with its grand ceilings, low lighting and a huge antique clock at one end, it looks like it’s been there for decades yet only opened as The Delaunay in 2011. It’s menu reflects the surroundings; Tranche of Halibut, Fillet of Beef Stroganoff and Grilled Spatchcock Chicken with Jersey Rock Oysters for starters, or Borscht with horseradish cream to reflect the European feel of the restaurant. There’s a specials menu too, which produced this delicious Beef Wellington with a doorstep sized wedge of beef that was medium rare, but not by any means a medium meal. There was no need for side orders with this meal as there was ample on offer. Still, the relaxed atmosphere of the restaurant allowed for some time between mains and dessert, allowing an opportunity to soak in the ambience.
The dessert menu gets the full European treatment with gems such as Classic Apple Strudel, Salzburger Soufflé and The Franz-Joseph Kaiserschmarrn (a fluffy, German inspired pancake dessert with plum compote). We went for the Berry & Vanilla Baked Alaska which arrived with the very dramatic blow torch and alcohol pan, served flaming in front of us with the meringue lightly scorched enough just as the flames burnt out. The fresh blackberries, red currants and kirsch bring out the sweetness of the ice cream and meringue in this hearty dish, leaving everyone satisfied after just two courses. You can of course, have a selection of British Cheeses either as well or instead of a dessert, and the extensive wine and cocktail list from The Delaunay Bar adds to the grandeur of the occasion.
Unlike other establishments, the hassle-free expertise of the waiting staff at The Delaunay contribute to the pleasure of dining in contrast to the more formal settings. Diners are afforded the speed of a City restaurant but the laid-back service of a French café or a German bar, making the entire experience the best of European dining.
Pros
Different cuisine with an emphasis on European, especially with the desserts
Very relaxed, easy to take your time over food or just a snack
Spacious seating so you can converse without interruption
Cons
Very dim light, so use the torch on your phone!
The Review Studio 