Disclaimer – We have received this item for free or on a loan basis for the purpose of this review/feature but all words and opinions are our own.
Right between the Guilgud Theatre and Sondheim Theatre in London’s Soho district, the Macellaio Italian Steak House sits proud on Shaftesbury Avenue. From the outside, the gingham curtains cover diners and hide the depth of the restaurant and what’s inside.
The first glimpse as you venture indoors is the huge meat counter. Rows of steaks ready to be cooked in the kitchen are lined up ready to eat. The restaurant is rustic, as if you are in a restaurant in a non-touristy town somewhere in Tuscany and everyone speaks only Italian, and the lights are low. The tables are arranged in a café style and the centre of the ceiling opens up to the second floor of the restaurant, where you can see more people dining and another bar awaits you.
The menu is a mixture of pasta and grill, with everything on the grill from cheeseburger to T-bone, but of course, the Italian version of T-bone! You can also choose spaghetti or ravioli ragu, like I did. The meats aren’t actually from Italy but from the Lake District, and aged 7 weeks to have the perfect tenderness and marbling. The breeds are a mix of Italian Maremmana and Angus beef to give a depth of texture and flavour. We were treated to a beef tallow dipping candle (as the candle melts, it created a fat reservoir to dip bread into). We also chose the Focaccia al Formaggio, which has a thin base and rich Stracchino cheese.
We were seriously impressed with our meals. They were authentically Italian with homemade, al dente pasta and slow cooked beef ragu which is the quintessential Italian pasta dish not ruined by commercialisation. The cheeseburger was too large to finish, along with the skin-on chips! The Marango cheese on the beef patty melted perfectly into the bun and complimented the beef.
No Italian restaurant can be complete without the tiramisu or profiteroles, and in our case, it was both! The tiramisu was extremely light and fluffy, nothing like the Anglicised version we have in pizza houses today. There was a hint of coffee there but no alcohol to overpower the dish. The profiteroles were also homemade, with lashings of chocolate (but not sweet) sauce over them and filled with an incredibly light cream. We topped off the meal with an Italian coffee, just to add to the authenticity of our visit!
The staff were very welcoming and incredibly attentive throughout the meal. The atmosphere of the restaurant is that of a laid-back, rural Italian salon with moody lighting and candles with the meat counter in the middle of the room which bounces light and the sound around so that you can still talk without being drowned out. There are two other Macellaio restaurants in London (South Kensington and Exmouth Market), which have similar menus. As a concept, eating both steak and Italian cuisine in the same evening is a winner for me!
Macellaio, 39-45 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W1D 6LA
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