This visit was not paid for by a third party and was conducted without the knowledge of the restaurant.
It’s no mean feat being the oldest restaurant in London but Rules on Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, has survived over 200 years and even stayed open during World War Two, although only for a couple of hours and rationed portions. The dwellers of West London could still consume unlimited amounts of rabbit, pheasant and grouse though as these were not rationed.
Rules caters for quintessential British cuisine with the aforementioned pheasant and grouse available still (and occasionally rabbit) depending on the season. The theatre of the restaurant lies in the atmosphere and formidable history of the premises which has never moved since gaining foothold in 1798.
The lavish premises lies on a side road close to the main Covent Garden Market but has become pedestrian only since Lockdown. Entering the door, the original roaring fireplace greets you second after the maître’d has locked eyes with you. It’s not often that you have fireplaces in restaurants anymore but then there aren’t many places to eat like Rules. The seating area is arranged in tables and booths with the walls covered in London and Thames memorabilia, a history of the establishment lives above the diners in the form of plaques, photos, cartoons and artwork. Upstairs there is a more secluded bar and just before Lockdown, The Winter Garden Cocktail Bar opened.
Along with cocktails and vast cellar of wines, the food is the most notable aspect. Presented on an oversized menu, there are everyday items such as their famous Rock Oysters and Dorset Crab, as well as London favourites such as Steak and Kidney Pie. The menu changes with the season though, so don’t be surprised to find pigeon, grouse, pheasant and duck on the menu along with an array of different fishes. You won’t find chicken on the menu very often though, unless it’s the integral part of Rules’ famous Chicken, Leek and Mushroom Pie.
It’s impossible not to enjoy the authenticity of Rules, in both the food and the décor. The food is very well cooked and served without garnish or drama but all of the original flavour is retained, enhanced by British-grown produce and often reminiscent of Granny’s handed-down recipe. It wouldn’t surprise me if every single one of the dishes came about after past patrons passed on the family secrets to each of Rules’ head chefs and the finished product is today’s modern day menu.
If you’re not familiar with game, then I can recommend the pheasant. On our visit, it was a special of the day with roast potatoes, onion, carrot and Yorkshire Pudding. Guests can also enjoy Roast Mallard, Daube of Venison and even sharing dishes such as Roast Rib of Beef for two. Of course, the traditional Salt-Aged Sirloin Steak is also there to tempt you when nothing else will do.
Desserts at Rules are just as exemplary as their game with British favourites such as Rules Sticky Toffee Pudding, Rules Golden Syrup Sponge and Bread & Butter Pudding. The dessert portions are ample and come with custard or ice cream but for the more adventurous, there are delights such as Chocolate Moelleux with Caramel Ice Cream and Honeycomb or Welsh Rarebit on Sourdough Toast. There’s Cropwell Blue Stilton or Cheese Plate to sample as well, with their famous silver biscuit box filled with Digestive Biscuits.
Pros
- Beautiful surroundings and exemplary service
- Excellent, traditional food
- The Winter Garden Cocktail Bar is an added bonus for before or after eating
Cons
- Seasonal menu, a lot of British game on the menu so some dishes won’t suit everyone
The Review Studio 